A SUDDEN SPRAY—then five orcas arc above the water. Their bodies hover midair before curving beneath the waves, a synchronized ballet in black and white. Soon more black dorsal fins knife across the blue expanse. All 26 members of J Pod, year-round residents of the Salish Sea, are here. The community includes three generations—from 100-year-plus matriarch Granny to baby J-49, born just a month earlier.
Some people measure the San Juan archipelago by its number of islands (172). I assess it by its 450 square miles of sapphire waters. For more than a decade, I’ve cruised the bays and straits with my husband on our 21-foot-long cuddy cruiser. But for one sunny weekend, we decide to see the Salish Sea from different perspectives.
Our whale-watching encounter comes with Orcas Island Eclipse Charters (orcas islandwhales.com), a company with an owner-operated vessel. The comfortable boat motors north toward the Fraser River in Canada, where the whales are traveling to feed on salmon. Once we encounter the pod, we refer to Captain Dan Wilk as our “whale whisperer,” since he always seems to know what the orcas will do next. “Look dead ahead,” he advises. Almost immediately, a 25-foot-long orca spyhops, bobbing up out of the water, then backflips—splash—into the sea.
The next day, I get down to sea level on a kayaking trip with Orcas Outdoors (orcasoutdoors.com), based at the island’s Boardwalk on the Water. Led by a naturalist guide, our group ventures between inlets and islets on West Sound. Waters are so clear I can eye sea stars and huge Dungeness crabs, which scuttle away before I can even consider how good they’d taste for dinner.
At one point, I think I see a crab pot floating ahead. Then it winks at me—a harbor seal! It swims within 15 feet of my craft before diving underwater. We paddle past a totem pole, multimillion-dollar estates, and a craggy cedar where a pair of bald eagles have nested and reared their young for more than a decade.
I file the scene away in my mind—another part of my aquatic adventures in the San Juans that I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
—Risa Wyatt
Read More About The Islands
The San Juan Islands are a quintessential getaway for a reason: from orcas and organic farms to mountains and mopeds, they offer a unique adventure for everyone.
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About 25 miles north of Seattle, catch the Mukilteo ferry to Whidbey Island for a diverse day trip.
From our Archives
WHALES GATHER in the cool waters of Washington from roughly April to September. And the 170-odd islands of the San Juans offer prime spotting territory for orca, gray, minke, and humpback.
Savor a slow, dry visit to the San Juan Islands.
Whidbey and its neighbor Camano woo visitors.
I PULL HARD on the paddle, launching the kayak into the cold, clear Salish Seathe coastal waterways surrounding southern Vancouver Island, Puget Sound, and the San Juan Islands. Heading for open water, I inhale the salt air off San Juan Island State Park. Its sandy, protected beach serves as a popular launch site for kayakers.
THE PIG WAR was a dispute over San Juan Islands territory, the only casualty of which was a single swine.
ABOUT 30 MILES and a ferry ride north of Seattle, on a long, puzzle piece of land, resides whats often known as the Puget Sounds largest artist colony: Whidbey Island.
Waters are so clear I can eye sea stars and huge Dungeness crabs.
The San Juan Islands are surrounded by deep, cold saltwater: a boon for salmon, crabs, fishermen, and foodies alike.
Small-town friendliness mingles with international acclaim in local art scenes.People dont live here by accident.
AN HOUR-LONG BOAT RIDE from Anacortes is all that separates mainland day-trippers from the shores of Friday Harbor, the gateway to San Juan Island.
From Whidbey to Orcas Island, isolation and a bounty of seafood make the area a mecca for esoteric wines, palate-cleansing brews, crisp ciders, and herbal spirits.
From the air, the San Juan Islands look like a necklace of gleaming emeralds, a chain of 172 pristine islands strewn across Puget Sound.
Find Out More
Please visit our Tourism Partners
Anacortes Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Information Center
360-293-3832
Camano Island Visitor Information
360-629-7136
Clinton Chamber of Commerce
360-341-3929
Coupeville-Central Whidbey Visitor Information
360-678-5434
Freeland Visitor Information
360-331-1980
Langley Visitor Information
360-221-6765
Central Whidbey Island Chamber of Commerce
360-675-3755
San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau
888-468-3701, ext. 1
Whidbey Camano Islands Tourism
888-747-7777