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Courtesy Columbia Riverkeeper

THE WHITE WATER appears on the right, a hundred yards ahead of our canoe. The Columbia River’s broad, glassy surface breaks into a foamy chop as water boils around a patch of submerged boulders.

I stroke harder, navigating the white water along the Hanford Reach National Monument (fws.gov/hanfordreach), one of the last major free-flowing stretches of the Columbia. Located east of Yakima, the Reach serves as a popular 18-mile paddle route for canoeists and kayakers.

We bring our own boats, though shops such as Columbia Kayak Adventures (columbiakayakadventures.com), in Richland, offer both rentals and tours. The Vernita Bridge, near Mattawa, is the standard put-in spot; 13 boat launch sites downstream offer plenty of takeouts, but trespassing is prohibited on the right bank, where chain-link fences topped with razor wire surround the mothballed reactors of the Hanford Nuclear Reservation. It’s still amazing to behold. Now retired, the reactors were once instrumental in the government’s nuclear weapons program. Plutonium produced here was used in the bomb dropped on Nagasaki in World War II.

In the course of our trip we see huge chinook spawning. They’ve run the gauntlet of nets, lures, seals, sea lions, and killer whales. Many have hooks trailing from their jaws, gashes in their sides, but they’ve succeeded in making the journey from the Pacific to spawn in this ideal habitat. They are the survivors.

There are also mule deer, coyotes, bald eagles, great blue herons, and white pelicans to see. A large elk herd hides in the canyons. Spring brings wildflowers. By the time we take out at the White Bluffs boat ramp, we’ve experienced a slice of the old Northwest. —NICK O’CONNELL

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Find Out More

Please visit our Tourism Partners


Prosser Chamber of Commerce

800-408-1517

Tri-Cities Visitor & Convention Bureau

800-254-5824

Toppenish Chamber of Commerce

(800) 863-6375

Tourism Walla Walla

877-WW-VISIT

Yakima Valley Visitors & Convention Bureau

800-221-0751