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> Coastal Ride

WASHINGTON’S COASTLINE is a mix of throwback charm and rugged, untouched landscape, best explored by following Highway 101 as it leads to the tip of the Olympic Peninsula. Start your expedition at Grays Harbor Lighthouse, the tallest in Washington, located at the base of the peninsula in Westport. At 107 feet in height, this beacon can be glimpsed from up to 20 miles away, luring sightseers to this quaint coastal town just as surely as it warns sailors of the rocks below.

Leading east from Westport, Highway 105 provides stunning views as it skirts the southern shore of Grays Harbor. Next, join Highway 101 at Aberdeen and follow it inland 38 miles north to Lake Quinault, adjacent to the Quinault Rain Forest. Set in a glacier-carved valley, this pristine realm is a great place to stretch your legs; the Rain Forest Nature Trail, a quick half-mile jaunt through a grove populated by 700-year-old trees, connects to some five miles of additional trails, one of which leads to the world’s largest Sitka Spruce. (Maps are available at the Lake Quinault Ranger Station, next to the Lake Quinault Lodge.)

From here, Highway 101 breaks west and darts straight for the coast, satisfying travelers anxious to reconnect with the Pacific. They won’t be disappointed once they view the ocean from Kalaloch, an oceanside fishing village that attracts stormwatchers who come to observe the elements in action. Even in calm weather, the area’s vast stretches of white, sandy beaches inspire.

Highway 101 veers back inland and north through Forks before heading east toward Port Angeles. But you’ll veer north onto Highway 113 to reconnect with Washington’s shoreline along Highway 112. You’ll be paralleling the Canadian border along the Strait of Juan de Fuca as you drive to Cape Flattery, the northwesternmost point in the continental United States. Along the way, scenic turnouts will pull you along Washington’s unspoiled coast until you simply run out of land—and linger, captivated by the prospect of open ocean, before turning back.

MUST DO

> EAT TAKE HOME FISH COMPANY, NEAH BAY
This white plywood shack may not look like much. But trust us, it’s worth the visit to sample the succulent smoked salmon, made from fish that owner Kimm Brown buys fresh each morning. 360-640-0262

> SEE CAPE FLATTERY, NEAH BAY
A series of platforms overlooking caves and sheer cliff faces—and myriad birds and seals—makes this 3/4-mile trail a must-see. Because the trail is on tribal lands, you’ll need to buy a recreational use permit in Neah Bay. Signs through the town point to the unpaved road leading to the trailhead.

> PLAY LADY WASHINGTON, GRAYS HARBOR
This tall ship still plies the local waters of Grays Harbor and is available for tours or adventurous sails. Families can also book passage for Expedition Voyages, on which crewmates get a taste of what it takes to sail an 18th-century ship. www.historicalseaport.org

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> The Cascade Loop

THE CIRCUIT FORMED by Highway 2, Highway 20, and assorted state routes is like Washington’s “greatest hits” of scenery: Stevens Pass, Lake Chelan, Methow Valley, Skagit River Valley, Snohomish River Valley, and countless hamlets that reflect the state’s unique temperament. It’s a truly eye-popping tour in and around the Cascade Mountains, but to see it all, you’ve got to embrace the open road—at more than 400 miles, this trek is a multi-day undertaking. Plan to tackle the route between May and October, because these roads are subject to weather-related closure, some all through winter.

Get your motor running in Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island and head out on Highway 20, which crosses onto the mainland and follows the Skagit River into the mountains. This storied route, also known as the North Cascades Highway, traverses jaw-dropping mountain scenery before descending into to the Methow Valley. Highlights along this 165-mile leg include some great hikes in Mt. Baker National Recreation Area, the turquoise waters of glacier-fed Diablo Lake, and awe-inspiring views more than 5,000 feet above sea level at Washington Pass.

From the Wild West atmosphere of Winthrop at the top of the Methow Valley, head south past the resort playground of Lake Chelan to the fruit orchards of Wenatchee. Bring a rod and reel, because there are plenty of places to cast a line along Highways 153 and 97, but save room for a bushel or a peck of apple country’s finest.

From Wenatchee, head west on Highway 2 through the dense greenery of Stevens Pass and the fertile Snohomish River Valley, before jumping on Highways 526 and 525 (and the Mukilteo ferry) bound for Whidbey Island. Before you reenter the Interstate 5 Corridor, consider parking in Snohomish for a while—with more than 400 antique dealers in a four-block radius, the town may just harbor the perfect souvenir to recall your scenic roadshow.

MUST DO

> EAT MT. INDEX CAFÉ, GOLD BAR
Locals venerate this tiny roadside eatery near Stevens Pass as the motherlode of loaves. If you’re swinging in for breakfast, order up the French toast, or at lunch, go for a sandwich. Either way, you can’t lose. 360-799-1133

> SEE SKAGIT RIVER INTERPRETIVE CENTER, ROCKPORT
Drivers heading east into the Cascade foothills from December to February are in for some highflying patriotic action. Bald eagles, our majestic national bird, scan the Skagit for dying salmon, and guided tours out of this interpretive center can help you spot them. www.skagiteagle.org

> PLAY EARLY WINTERS OUTFITTING, MAZAMA
If you’re going to explore the West, you might as well experience it the way a true cowboy does—on
horseback. Featuring pack trips through the Methow Valley, this outfitter caters to old-fashioned adventurers, as in, you may reel in your own dinner and cook it over a campfire.
www.earlywintersoutfitting.com

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> Yakima River Ride

AT ONLY 120 MILES, this memorable drive stretches north from one of Washington’s wine cities (Yakima) through two of its down-to-earth towns (Ellensburg and Roslyn) to one of its most picturesque spots (Snoqualmie). Interlaced with stunning scenery and pop-cultural points of interest, this route warrants a slow pace as it ambles alongside the Yakima River.

While the express route from Yakima to Ellensburg is Interstate 82, you’ll want to ride right inside the Yakima River Canyon on Highway 821 instead. With only a few ranches dotting the landscape, this drive twists and turns alongside a railway through nearly untouched scenery—much of it owned by Washington’s Nature Conservancy. Hikers make the most of these surroundings by getting out of the car and hoofing it up the hills for spectacular panoramas of the river and the various bridges that span it.

From Ellensburg, both Interstate 90 and Highway 10 cut scenic routes to Roslyn, the stand-in for the town of Cicely, Alaska, in the television series Northern Exposure. Despite the claim to fame, the town retains the quirky charm that drew the show’s producers in the first place. Iconic sites such as the radio station remain, as do many of the locals who appeared in the award-winning program.

An hour northwest of Roslyn on I-90 lies Snoqualmie, which served as the setting for the David Lynch television series Twin Peaks. Devoted fans of the show continue to make pilgrimages to the area to see the eerie, misty hometown of the show’s mysteriously murdered protagonist, Laura Palmer. Known for scene-stealing appearances in both shows, nearby Snoqualmie Falls tumbles 270 feet, creating a majestic curtain of spray that could prove the perfect setting for your own docudrama, featuring the evocative Washington landscape.

MUST DO

> EAT YELLOW CHURCH CAFÉ
This church-turned chow hall has a zealous following of folks who swear by the fare, from a steak-and-mashed potato “last supper” to the “heavenly loaf” (garlic and cheese bread). Portions run big, so bring your hungry— for they shall be fed. www.yellowchurchcafe.com

> SEE ELLENSBURG RODEO
Every Labor Day weekend, four days of hoofed frenzy overtakes Ellensburg as more than 500 participants take part in one of the country’s premier rodeo events. But it’s not just about the bulls
and broncos: a parade and the Kittitas County Fair are also part of the show. www.ellensburgrodeo.com

> PLAY RED’S FLY SHOP, ELLENSBURG
One of the best ways to get big enjoyment out of this short drive is to pull over and hook up with a guide at this roadside outfitter. From equipment to advice, these guys know all the angles, and can help you locate success out on the water. www.redsflyshop.com

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> Picturesque Palouse

THE PALOUSE SCENIC BYWAY is a 208-mile patchwork of roads that shows off southeastern Washington’s quaint towns and rolling farmland. It’s hard to take a false turn on any of the designated routes, but the 75-mile, north-to-south stretch of Highway 195 from Rosalia to the Idaho border packs in the most jaw-dropping views.

Set out 30 miles south of Spokane at Rosalia’s Visitor’s and Information Center, housed in an old-fashioned Texaco service station where folks can fuel up on everything they need to know about scenic Whitman County.

Just 20 miles down the road, Steptoe Butte State Park offers the perfect vantage point for panoramic views of the Palouse. A narrow, paved road guides cars to a parking area at the top of the 3,612-foot butte, where it’s not uncommon to see hang gliders taking flight.

About 30 miles south of the butte, the town of Pullman anchors the region. Home to Washington State University and named after the renowned railroad car manufacturer, Pullman bustles with bars, bistros, and shopping spots, making it a great place to hunker down for an overnight and take in some of WSU’s cultural offerings.

Farther down Highway 195, St. Gall’s Catholic Church in Colton, a lovely century-old structure, merits a brief stop; the famous Wagon Wheel Fence, with its 1,000 antique tractor and wagon wheels all in a row outside neighboring Uniontown, also draws gawkers. Press on into Clarkston, where the Clearwater and Snake Rivers intersect at the gateway to Hells Canyon National Recreation Area, and you can inform your friends back home that you’ve been to hell and back—and couldn’t have enjoyed yourself more.

MUST DO

> EAT ROOSTERS WATERFRONT RESTAURANT, CLARKSTON
Serving more than 170 drinks and everything from buffalo wings to
blackened catfish, this local favorite has a great view of the Snake River from its deck. www.roosterslanding.com

> SEE JEWETT OBSERVATORY, PULLMAN
You probably didn’t expect to see stars while visiting earthy southeastern Washington, but the lack of light pollution and a broad stretch of sky make this an ideal place to stargaze. In spring, summer, and fall, WSU’s observatories are open to the public for Star Parties. You probably won’t see Uma Thurman, but Ursa Minor is almost always around. http://astro.wsu.edu/observatory.html

> PLAY COLFAX GOLF CLUB
It’s been said that golf is a good walk spoiled. But when you’re teeing up in the Palouse, that’s debatable. Bordered by the Palouse River, the nine-hole Colfax course presents sterling views of the region’s signature landscape: rolling hills and amber waves of grain stretch as far as the eye can see. www.colfaxgolfcourse.com

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> Reservoir Run

DESPITE ITS ARID landscape, the area between Spokane and the Cascades is dotted with watery wonders. And while Washington is generally known for its natural beauty, a 54-mile drive from Soap Lake to Grand Coulee Dam along the Columbia River also shows off the area’s man-made might.

Begin by admiring the foamy shores of Soap Lake, an old resort town on a body of water known for its unusually high mineral content. Tourists by the trainload arrived in the early 1900s, seeking a soak in the sulfurous water and the reputed therapeutic benefits of its finely ground mud.

About five miles north, another naturally occurring formation is readily accessible from Highway 17: Lake Lenore Caves. The series of caverns, formed during the last Ice Age, were born when rushing floodwaters pulled rock right out of the basalt walls. Native Americans used these nooks as temporary shelters; now they are connected along a labyrinthine trail for hikers to explore.

Farther north along Highway 17, man-made marvels begin to appear in the form of Banks Lake, which was created after the construction of Grand Coulee Dam. This 27-mile-long reservoir covers what was once farmland but now serves as a great spot for water sports, fishing, and boating.

But the big spectacle here is Grand Coulee Dam itself, a massive undertaking by the Public Works Administration in the 1930s that is now the world’s fourth-largest hydroelectric dam. More than 5,000 feet wide and over 500 feet tall, it is larger than the Great Pyramid of Giza—and some argue it’s just as impressive an engineering feat. Tours of this still-operating facility begin from the visitor center, which tells the story behind its ambitious construction.

On the other side of the dam, Lake Roosevelt—named after the president responsible for its creation—stretches about 150 miles north to the Canadian border. Its more than 600 miles of shoreline offers an ideal opportunity to stretch your legs and marvel at the spectacular scenery

MUST DO

> EAT B & B RESTAURANT, SOAP LAKE
To truly enjoy old-fashioned Soap Lake, pull up to this drive-in. It’s your typical car-hop fare (burgers, fries, and shakes), but it comes with a side of authenticity you’d have to drive hours to find elsewhere. 509-246-1231

> SEE GRAND COULEE DAM LASER LIGHT SHOW
Every night from Memorial Day to September 30, the dam’s massive electrical energy is harnessed for a bit of laser-light fun. The dazzling presentation projects images right onto the spillway, explaining how and why the massive structure was built. www.grandcouleedam.com

> PLAY HEALING WATER SPA, SOAP LAKE
Anyone can “take the waters” on the shores of Soap Lake, but hitting this spa puts you in the hands of experts who know just how to pamper you. With treatments ranging from simple mineral-water baths to full-body mud wraps, Healing Water rejuvenates and invigorates. www.healingwaterspa.com

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