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TREAT THIS ROUTE as a marathon,
not a sprint. On the Olympic Peninsula (OP), where the rain forest
meets the sea under towering mountains, it’s impossible to
tour without frequent stops to marvel at the natural attractions.
Most are accessible year-round, and in many cases they are more
spectacular in winter, when waves pound the coast, waterfalls roar,
and the forest swells in a thousand shades of green.
While no road crosses its interior, the OP boasts many wonders
just a short stroll from the car. From I-5 outside of Olympia,
head north on U.S. 101 on the west side of Hood Canal, the Puget
Sound channel famous for its shellfish. Tour the Hama Hama Oyster
Company in Lilliwaup or follow Forest Service roads to short interpretive
trails that describe how the U.S. Forest Service and Civilian Conservation
Corps built the peninsula’s infrastructure. Then veer up
to Port Townsend to sample its Victorian architecture and historic
forts, and stop in Sequim to visit Dungeness Spit, a national wildlife
refuge that juts five miles into the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Continue west to Port Angeles, gateway to Olympic National Park’s
Hurricane Ridge and Lake Crescent, as well as Victoria, British
Columbia (via ferry). Stay on U.S. 101 to Forks, currently abuzz
as the setting of the teen vampire series Twilight, or swing out
on Highway 112 to Neah Bay and Cape Flattery, the northwesternmost
point in the Lower 48. The Makah Tribe has built a three-quarter-mile
trail and boardwalk that makes it easier than ever to get to the
tip.
From Forks, drive south on U.S. 101 to access lush rain forests
and rugged Pacific Coast. Some beaches require serious hiking,
but the sea stacks and tide pools at Ruby Beach, located soon after
U.S. 101 reaches the western coast, are near the parking lot. Likewise,
the half-mile Lake Quinault Rain Forest Nature Trail, just off
U.S. 101, is as awe-inspiring as the better-known Hoh Rain Forest’s
Hall of Mosses, a scenic 18-mile drive each way.
Some 40 miles south in Hoquiam, the loop leads back east toward
Olympia. But first, take a quick detour west on Highway 109 to
Grays Harbor National Wildlife Refuge, whose mudflats provide a
haven for shorebirds. —MIKE GREENSTEIN
MUST DO
> EAT THE LODGE Set to open in 2010, this
restaurant promises to bring the magic of the Twilight series of
books and movies to Forks, a key setting in the series. Dedicated
consumers of the pop-culture phenomenon will appreciate the many
Twilight-themed dishes on the Lodge's menu. www.dazzledbytwilight.com
> SEE WORLD’S LARGEST TREES Quinault
Valley has six conifers recognized by the National Forestry Association
as the largest living specimens of their species. Two (western
red cedar and sitka spruce) are easy walks from the parking lot.
Get maps online, at the Quinault Internet Café, or at the
ranger station next to Lake Quinault Lodge. www.quinaultrainforest.com
> PLAY OLYMPIC DISCOVERY TRAIL Eventually,
this nonmotorized corridor will stretch 125 miles from Port Townsend
to the Pacifi c, but currently the 27 miles from Hollywood Beach
in Port Angeles to one mile east of Sequim Bay are completed for
biking, hiking, and horseback riding, mostly along former rail
lines. www.olympicdiscoverytrail.com
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